For less than 20 bucks you can get a great bottle that will blow away many twice-the-price California vintages. Here are a few simple guidelines for buying wisely.

By Daniel Duane

Any hardcore wine geek will tell you that one of the biggest wine stories of the past few years is the exploding popularity of Spanish varietals, mostly because the reds can be purchased for sensationally low prices. In part that’s because there’s just so bloody much of the stuff: Spain actually has more land under vineyard cultivation than any other country on Earth — nearly three times that of the United States. Spaniards also have a winemaking tradition dating back to the Romans, who poured the booze into amphorae and loaded it aboard their galleys to ship around the empire. So why don’t most American guys know their tempranillo from their garnacha? Their godello from their loureira? It doesn’t help that Spanish wine labels offer such a jumble of foreign words that nobody really even knows which is the grape varietal and which is the name of the vintner’s dog (take Emilio Lustau Jerez Oloroso Emperatriz Eugenia, for example). But here’s the good news: You can dive right into the tinaja (an old-fashioned Spanish wine vat, in case you didn’t know) by focusing less on the grape varietal and more on the region in question. Just tune into these four key areas, which are certified by the Spanish government and offer some of the most delicious reserves, and you’ll be on your way.

1. Bold Ribera del Duero
Tempranillo is the main grape in this region, and it’s characterized by bold darkness, an oaky structure, and chocolatey flavors.

One to Try:
Zarus Barrica Ribera del Duero 2004; $18
A taste of red cherries and spices (like cinnamon or cardamom) and bright, balanced quality make this wine unusually refreshing for a red, and a good fit for roasted lamb au jus.

2. Classy Rioja
This is the marquee Spanish region, analogous to Bordeaux in France or California’s Napa Valley. There’s a huge range of flavors, but the best Riojas display elegance and complexity.

One to Try:
Beronia Reserva 2003; $19
This food-friendly wine with notes of vanilla and toasted bread is perfect for pizza or steak.

3. Fruity Jumilla
On the lighter side, Jumillas are nothing but fun. They’re easy to drink, unchallenging, unaggressive crowd-pleasers.

One to Try:
Altos de la Hoya 2007; $13
If you’re a fan of merlot, this is a perfect entrée to the world of Spanish wines. It’s a plummy and utterly drinkable bottle that would work well with a cheese platter.

4. Flashy Priorat/Montsant
Think full-bodied, Cali-style fruit bombs with high alcohol content.

One to Try:
Can Blau 2007 Montsant; $17
With notes of strawberry jam and plum concentrate, this wine is big and smooth, braced by fine-grained tannins and brightened by well-integrated acid. A terrific food wine, especially if you’re looking at a grass-fed medium-rare skirt steak, only sea salt and black pepper.