Food & Drink

The Cookbooks Every Man Should Own

By Daniel Duane  Fri, Nov 21, 2008

Even the most confident chef needs to do a bit of homework. Lean on these five books to hone your skills.

The Cookbooks Every Man Should Own
Mario Batali's Gnocchi With Venison and Rosemary Photo credit: Reprinted from THE BABBO COOKBOOK by Mario Batali. Copyright (c) 2002. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, a division of Random House, Inc.

Even the most confident chef needs to do a bit of homework. Lean on these five books to hone your skills.

by Daniel Duane

To become king of your own kitchen you don’t need a hundred trendy new cookbooks on, say, Japanese-Peruvian sushi or French pastry. You need a handful of classics, and then you need to be left alone to work through every recipe and technique until you’ve dog-eared the pages, smeared sauce on the dust jackets, and finally emerged as the culinary killer you’ve always known you could be. Jump online and buy our must-have list, a five-book core curriculum guaranteed to get you there.








The River Cottage Meat Book

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall

Cookbook Photos by Michael Pirrocco
Cookbook Photos by Michael Pirrocco

The carnivore’s bible: “Labeling Hugh a chef is like calling the Pope a churchgoer,” writes New York restaurateur Dan Barber. Underground hero to British cooks and food writers, Fearnley-Whittingstall lives the ultimate male food fantasy on a farm in southwest England: raising, slaughtering, butchering, curing, and cooking everything from cattle to lamb, pigs to chickens. He fishes in local streams, shotguns passing waterfowl, and subscribes to a muscular food philosophy every carnivore ought to absorb. This book teaches you not just how to sear a steak, or what part of the pig a Boston butt comes from, but how every common farm-raised animal is slaughtered, butchered, and cooked, and even how to buy whole animals from your local farmer. The recipes are dynamite, especially “Roast Beef — The Full Monty.” $40; for more on Fearnley-Whittingstall see the “Best List 2008,” beginning on page 116.

Bistro Cooking at Home
Gordon Hamersley

French cuisine made easy: Gordon Hamersley’s restaurant, Hamersley’s Bistro, has been Boston’s go-to French joint for decades, making his book exactly the right bistro-cooking introduction for the skeptical American male. You can hate Frenchmen for taking six-week vacations and politely declining to join our wars, but French technique remains the backbone of every modern culinary education. And while no practical man ought to muddle his brain with the vagaries of French haute cuisine, bistro food is the perfect repertoire to master, the ideal set of basic dishes to commit to memory so you no longer even need to consult a recipe. Low-key and traditional, bistro food is pretty much everything you crave to make and eat anyway: steak and fries, roast chicken, onion soup, braised lamb, grilled fish. And because Hamersley has been serving this stuff for a generation now, his interpretations have exactly the right mix of French flair and American hardiness. $35


Chez Panisse Vegetables

Alice Waters

Eat your vegetables: Alice Waters, who opened the legendary Chez Panisse restaurant in Berkeley, California, in 1971, is arguably the most influential chef in the history of American cuisine. As a champion of French country cooking, and as the lady who taught much of the country how to pronounce arugula, Waters is the original advocate for the fresh local fruits and vegetables that every restaurant now wants you to know it’s using. Next time you see a menu listing Warmed Happy Girl Goat Cheese over Sleepy Moose Farms Mixed Greens, thank Alice. And tip your hat to her after purchasing bags of fresh “spring salad mix” at CostCo. Arranged from A to Z, from amaranth greens to zucchini, Chez Panisse Vegetables is the only book you’ll need to prepare nearly every single vegetable you’ll ever stumble upon in an American farmers market. Mini essays tell you when specific vegetables are in season and how to gauge ripeness and spot quality. The cookbook offers a battery of French- and Italian-influenced recipes for soups, salads, pastas, pizzas, gratins, and side dishes composed of some vegetable you’ve never even heard of. This book will enable you to cruise the farmers market, buy everything that looks good, haul it home and know you’ll be able to blow minds and make your cardiologist smile. Best of all, you can finally stop making that pathetic steamed broccoli you’ve been choking down since college. Absurdly simple recipes you’ll be loving for years: roasted winter vegetables; pasta with potatoes, rocket, and rosemary; butter­nut squash pizza. $35


Le Cordon Bleu: Complete Cooking Techniques
Le Cordon Bleu

Advanced studies: Le Cordon Bleu (French for “The Blue Ribbon”) is the largest and most prestigious culinary educational institution on the planet. Cooking has a universal skill set, and while any good book will explain the basic tricks needed to pull off its own recipes, it helps to have an unbiased expert telling you what gear is worth buying, how to pick out a good knife, how to bone a leg of lamb and make great chicken stock and puree soup and bake whole round fish and stuff a pig’s heart and julienne carrots. Not that you’d study all this at once, or go flipping casually for recipes; the idea here is that a solid technique manual is to a home chef what a good dictionary is to a writer. This book is a solid reference, always ready with easy-to-follow step-by-step photographs and instructions on almost everything you’ll ever want to do to food. $45


The Babbo Cookbook

Mario Batali

It’s not just italian food: The hottest celebrity chef in America, Batali parties with rock stars, endorses gadgets, and, in his new TV show, wanders Spain with Gwyneth Paltrow. That’s not to say he’s a bad chef; in fact, he’s the rare one who deserves his fame. Every American home chef should have a basic grounding in Italian cuisine. Along with French cuisine, it’s one of the two pillars of modern American food. But the real reason to study Batali is that he’s our reigning messiah of gustatory ecstasy, a man who cooks from the gut and lives for the pure joy of food and wine. (And that’s the only truly worthwhile reason to bother with any of this.) All of Batali’s lunatic energy and wisdom is present in this book — in recipes so lip-smackingly delicious that every person at your table will go home loving you. Heck, you’ll even love yourself. Examples: beef cheek ravioli; braised short ribs with horseradish gremolata. $40

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