Canadian whiskey has long been lighter and sweeter than scotch, bourbon, or rye, generally going down without a fuss. But most of us like a little fuss — a spark of complexity to make you straighten up and pay attention. Fortunately, a handful of boutique producers up north are now turning out nuanced, assertive whiskeys that don’t belong anywhere near a glass of 7UP. Canadian whiskey is still easy-drinking — a blend of corn, barley, and rye, distilled twice, and aged at least three years in oak casks — but as these standouts prove, mellowness can be deceptive.

By Rob Willey, Photographs by Michael Pirrocco

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Forty Creek Barrel Select ($22)

This whiskey’s three grains are distilled in separate barrels and aged from six to 10 years. After blending, a six-month honeymoon in an old oloroso sherry cask gives the finished product an amarettolike nuttiness. (fortycreekwhisky.com)

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Pendleton ($25)

This rugged, faintly leathery, corn-heavy spirit is distilled and aged in Canada, then hauled over the border at cask strength and diluted with glacial water from Mount Hood. The result edges toward sweet, with a mellow, caramelized finish. (hrdspirits.com)

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Hirsch Selection 20-Year-Old ($70)

The pale-straw color of this 100-percent Canadian rye whiskey belies a surprising depth of flavor — an unbelievably smooth expression of rye polished out with honey and a nutty, toasted-almond sweetness.

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Glen Breton Rare ($95)

This is actually a single malt — made just like scotch, but in Nova Scotia. That said, it’s whiskey, it’s Canadian, and it’s way too drinkable to ignore: Its sweet, bready aroma yields to a faint smokiness with hints of maple. (glenoradistillery.com)

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This article originally appeared in the November 2009 issue of Men’s Journal.